Navratri

13.10.07
Navratri (Durga Puja), a nine night festival celebrating the goddess in 9 of her forms, began 2 days ago and it has been non-stop Durga (goddess) fest since then! She is the deity that I have spent the most time studying and the one with whom I resonate the most, so it is a very happy and intense time here in Varanasi!

Friday, the first day of the festival, I accompanied Rekha out to her village (Jaunpour) to take part in the first haircut of her 1 year-old nephew. It was a long bumpy ride out to the village, and every little town that we passed seemed to be having a Durga celebration. Groups of young boys with loud sound systems were pulling carts with large effigies of the goddess riding on the back. Her face was covered so that none could fully see her until she was installed in the temporary housing that she would live in for the next nine days. At the end of nine days, the large statues would be removed and then taken to the river.
Upon arrival in Jaunour, we were greeted by Rekha’s large happy family who were waiting under one of the many old buildings and shacks that were built up around the temple and temple pond (kund) in order to house family celebrations and pilgrims. After a quick hello, all the women went to the ancient goddess temple to give a quick salutation at the door and then back for the ceremonial haircut. The little boy and his elder sister were both shaved bald with a straight razor. The barber was deft and quick but still the kids screamed and screamed while the female relatives looked on singing soothing songs and trying to tell distracting jokes. After the haircuts we again went to the temple to pay proper respects and make offerings. Being at such a celebration out in the village, going to an ancient goddess temple on the first day of Navratri was an unexpected gift.

In all fairness, I should mention that while at the temple grounds I ate something that was slightly evil and after the second visit to the temple and a lame attempt to eat the great lunch they prepared, I had to excuse myself over to a corner where I proceeded to puke my guts out. Not such a great part of the day, but what to do? It happens. After a good puke, everyone asked me if I felt good now and then it was time to carry on as if there had been no sickness. Something I like here is that you just get sick, and get on with it, no excessive pampering or worrying. Just move on. Well, I would have rather just lay down for a while and eventually I was allowed to (for 5 minutes), but onwards we must go. I was pretty wiped out for a few hours, but knowing that time was short, there was nothing else to do but try and put on a “strong mind” (as a friend Mahesh says) and be a good guest. Talk about tapas. Ha! Everything is practice is it not?

Speaking of practice, I have hardly written about my studies, but they are going well and slowly, slowly finding a rhythm. Markji is as inspiring as ever. When he reads from the Tantra Sara or Tantra Loka, it is as if some of the most complicated concepts are as easy to understand as basic arithmetic. Lately we have been learning about using gross means (body, etc) as means of realization. For the practice and teaching of Hatha yoga, it is most applicable! Hope to bring some of it back with me!


Off to do the washing and then go learn some Sanskrit grammar.
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